Lamu

"You think its easy..... but its no easy".. this is what the rastas keep saying to me inbetween singing "No Woman, No Cry". We've made it into the annual Doah race in Lamu for the Muslim New Year Celebration. Nikki and I are entertained to say the least. First, I love boats and apparantly tacking a Doah requires a crewman to jump overboard and swim the sheet around to the other side. I wouldnt make it up- we round the first mark and suddenly crews from every boat are in the water. We come in fifth... but our boat wins the spirit award. There is drumming, singing, hollering, "one love" the whole way. I usually say no, but hanging with rastas for the week was mmmm priceless.
Lamu is an island on the north coast of Kenya. Here- donkeys are the main transport and Im blown away by it. You would think eventually someone would have the brilliant idea to attatch the donkey to a cart but here it is efficeint enough to haul building supplies on the backs of donkeys. Hey its Africa- there is no time constraint. So- 900 bob will get you 9 donkeys hauling sand in saddle bags. I watch construction one morning and it goes something like this: one man with a barely working wheelboro brings cement back and forth while 4 men stand and watch him, some with arms crossed, others on cells phones. 4 hours later he is still doing this- no one else but him. They all wear hard hats yet- no scafolding, no second story in sight. Oh Africa- uniform is important. Stamping things is important. Writing out receipts are really important. Silliness really.
Nikki and I are in a very muslim town and so are hounded constantly. We are accutely aware of how much the women miss out. Are there any other girls in the doah race? no. Are there any women in the donkey race? no. Were there any respectable women out dancing? no. Are there any women enjoying a sheesh and a beer? no. The women are sitting in groups, tending to children, wrapped from head to toe in sweltering heat- watching their men fawn over muzungus. Bogus. We are told one day that we should be wearing Burkas as well.. "when in rome". But I dont feel like I wish to participate in such an oppressive religion. And it is oppressive. I try to find good in things. Try to see them as no better, no worse, just different. BUT when it comes to islam- I am not a fan. Even if I have met some really great muslims.
Lamu- oh I love Lamu. Its fascinating. There is a town accross the sandy island where they build the Doahs... I must go. Nikki and I start trekking but now it's noon. The sand is burning our feet- really burning it. And so we start scrapping together our Swahili and going to houses and asking to pay to use their donkeys. Finally- someone comes along and we are emergency evacutated via Donkey to Matondoni where the town opens it's one store for the muzungus to replenish and recover with soda and fresh fish. Its hilarious.
So the Donkeys: they all get branded by the owners and wander around town, eating from the dump. The owners collect them in the morning. Because they are overworked and fed from the dump there is a donkey hospital and a donkey ambulance (the one car on the island). The morning of the donkey race our friend "Happy" (they all have names like this), a happy half indian rasta, is telling us a story he finds really funny. His brother is racing his donkey "Shakira" today and he didnt sleep at all last night. He made a fire for the donkey and the real funny part, he even fed it. Lamu is endlessly entertaining.