So we decide not to go to Ethiopia for Christmas. The news everyday is talking about how the Somali border is very dangerous right now and thats basically where we are and would be even closer if we went to Ethiopia. Plus, it would take too much time. So- Jinja, Uganda for Christmas. We are going white water rafting.
We board the bus in Lamu- 9 hours later Mombassa. Find a night bus to Nairobi and arrive at 6am- here we make a friend on the bus to walk us to the next bus station. It is notoriously dangerous but seems just fine. We run in for some breakfast and when I open the bathroom door I find some woman crying and being violently strip searched by a pack of women and men. They stop- look at me and motion for me to squeeze through and out. I sit down and we are informed that everyone is sizing us up here so we move on and get on the first bus OUT haha. This one is mm 12 hours to Jinja. We play the new CDs and DVDs we bought on the bus for everyone's entertainment. 36 hours of bus = Jinja but we're doing fine. Weird but Ive had worse. Maybe it's the scenery....maybe the company.
We go moutain biking in Lamu, sign up for all our fun activities and then guess who gets malaria for christmas ;) Thats right... this girl.
Ive seen it wreck us white kids a couple times so I didnt mess around- caught it early. Sleeping lots now and eating well. Looking out over the nile and feeling like malaria is "the shit". Im enjoying myself haha- dont you worry bout me.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Lamu
"You think its easy..... but its no easy".. this is what the rastas keep saying to me inbetween singing "No Woman, No Cry". We've made it into the annual Doah race in Lamu for the Muslim New Year Celebration. Nikki and I are entertained to say the least. First, I love boats and apparantly tacking a Doah requires a crewman to jump overboard and swim the sheet around to the other side. I wouldnt make it up- we round the first mark and suddenly crews from every boat are in the water. We come in fifth... but our boat wins the spirit award. There is drumming, singing, hollering, "one love" the whole way. I usually say no, but hanging with rastas for the week was mmmm priceless.
Lamu is an island on the north coast of Kenya. Here- donkeys are the main transport and Im blown away by it. You would think eventually someone would have the brilliant idea to attatch the donkey to a cart but here it is efficeint enough to haul building supplies on the backs of donkeys. Hey its Africa- there is no time constraint. So- 900 bob will get you 9 donkeys hauling sand in saddle bags. I watch construction one morning and it goes something like this: one man with a barely working wheelboro brings cement back and forth while 4 men stand and watch him, some with arms crossed, others on cells phones. 4 hours later he is still doing this- no one else but him. They all wear hard hats yet- no scafolding, no second story in sight. Oh Africa- uniform is important. Stamping things is important. Writing out receipts are really important. Silliness really.
Nikki and I are in a very muslim town and so are hounded constantly. We are accutely aware of how much the women miss out. Are there any other girls in the doah race? no. Are there any women in the donkey race? no. Were there any respectable women out dancing? no. Are there any women enjoying a sheesh and a beer? no. The women are sitting in groups, tending to children, wrapped from head to toe in sweltering heat- watching their men fawn over muzungus. Bogus. We are told one day that we should be wearing Burkas as well.. "when in rome". But I dont feel like I wish to participate in such an oppressive religion. And it is oppressive. I try to find good in things. Try to see them as no better, no worse, just different. BUT when it comes to islam- I am not a fan. Even if I have met some really great muslims.
Lamu- oh I love Lamu. Its fascinating. There is a town accross the sandy island where they build the Doahs... I must go. Nikki and I start trekking but now it's noon. The sand is burning our feet- really burning it. And so we start scrapping together our Swahili and going to houses and asking to pay to use their donkeys. Finally- someone comes along and we are emergency evacutated via Donkey to Matondoni where the town opens it's one store for the muzungus to replenish and recover with soda and fresh fish. Its hilarious.
So the Donkeys: they all get branded by the owners and wander around town, eating from the dump. The owners collect them in the morning. Because they are overworked and fed from the dump there is a donkey hospital and a donkey ambulance (the one car on the island). The morning of the donkey race our friend "Happy" (they all have names like this), a happy half indian rasta, is telling us a story he finds really funny. His brother is racing his donkey "Shakira" today and he didnt sleep at all last night. He made a fire for the donkey and the real funny part, he even fed it. Lamu is endlessly entertaining.
Lamu is an island on the north coast of Kenya. Here- donkeys are the main transport and Im blown away by it. You would think eventually someone would have the brilliant idea to attatch the donkey to a cart but here it is efficeint enough to haul building supplies on the backs of donkeys. Hey its Africa- there is no time constraint. So- 900 bob will get you 9 donkeys hauling sand in saddle bags. I watch construction one morning and it goes something like this: one man with a barely working wheelboro brings cement back and forth while 4 men stand and watch him, some with arms crossed, others on cells phones. 4 hours later he is still doing this- no one else but him. They all wear hard hats yet- no scafolding, no second story in sight. Oh Africa- uniform is important. Stamping things is important. Writing out receipts are really important. Silliness really.
Nikki and I are in a very muslim town and so are hounded constantly. We are accutely aware of how much the women miss out. Are there any other girls in the doah race? no. Are there any women in the donkey race? no. Were there any respectable women out dancing? no. Are there any women enjoying a sheesh and a beer? no. The women are sitting in groups, tending to children, wrapped from head to toe in sweltering heat- watching their men fawn over muzungus. Bogus. We are told one day that we should be wearing Burkas as well.. "when in rome". But I dont feel like I wish to participate in such an oppressive religion. And it is oppressive. I try to find good in things. Try to see them as no better, no worse, just different. BUT when it comes to islam- I am not a fan. Even if I have met some really great muslims.
Lamu- oh I love Lamu. Its fascinating. There is a town accross the sandy island where they build the Doahs... I must go. Nikki and I start trekking but now it's noon. The sand is burning our feet- really burning it. And so we start scrapping together our Swahili and going to houses and asking to pay to use their donkeys. Finally- someone comes along and we are emergency evacutated via Donkey to Matondoni where the town opens it's one store for the muzungus to replenish and recover with soda and fresh fish. Its hilarious.
So the Donkeys: they all get branded by the owners and wander around town, eating from the dump. The owners collect them in the morning. Because they are overworked and fed from the dump there is a donkey hospital and a donkey ambulance (the one car on the island). The morning of the donkey race our friend "Happy" (they all have names like this), a happy half indian rasta, is telling us a story he finds really funny. His brother is racing his donkey "Shakira" today and he didnt sleep at all last night. He made a fire for the donkey and the real funny part, he even fed it. Lamu is endlessly entertaining.
Monday, December 14, 2009
Sick Matatus
Sooo. I made it to the coast of Kenya and it is incredible. There is a lot to say so Ill summarize. The beaches are white sand and the water clear blue. Nikki and I went diving and the reef was pretty decent. We swim, eat, swim, eat. Here the sex industry is disgusting. The coast is a vacation spot for middle aged Italians. What's nice is the western influence on the area. I cant deny that I love the option of pizza although we usually each chiaptis anyway. What I dont care for is going to a restuarant with mostly middle aged white men and their local prositute(s). Clubs and bars here are filled with mostly with prostitutes. It makes me sad for the idea of marraige. Also- we cant really hang out on the beach without being bothered every 10minutes by the "beach boys" -male prostitutes. They are pretty awful: we've tried many tactics. If you are polite- they stay, if you are rude- they stay, if you dont speak- they stay, if you pretend to speak another language they dont know- they stay.... if you dont look at them they say ' youre just ordinary you know'.. Africans in their desperation for money are relentless and 99% of their conversations head to the "give me some money" punchline. Ive found that I prefer to talk and just ignore that part. Nikki and I like to play soccer with the kids and play card games at dinner. And my favorite part of the coast is the sick matatus. Matatus are the vans used for public transport- they pack em full of like 20 people and everyone pays 20cents. But on the coast its like an episode of 'Pimp my ride' - Kenyan style. Yesterday I was in one with the wall covered with Lil Wayne, TuPac, ..everyone really.. and on the wall it said "The Rich Also Cry". Matatus with soccer team themes, rims, music videos playing, ...... Im gonna miss these matatus. Next move: Ethiopia for Christmas ;)
Monday, December 7, 2009
Malindi
I left ICODEI and took the overnight bus to Mombassa complete with armed military checks and crazy bumpy roads of Africa. But it was pretty awesome- for one, I was able to sleep cause the seats recline enough and two they play britney, madonna, and celine- what more can you ask for. Mombassa was a beautiful clash of muslim, african, beach town... I just loved it. And if I said "no thank you" that person would then say "ok" and walk away. So nice. Sooo- I traveled in a Matatu(minivan) with 28 other people and a goat to Malindi today. Its a beautiful beach town and Im gonna go take advantage of it now- realized I hadnt updated in a while. Hope you all are well!!! XXs and Oos
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Leaving ICODEI
I love Kenya.. I ride to town on the back of a motorbike through fields of sugar cane on red dirt roads.. What's not to love. The sky is beautiful 24 hours of the day. The people swindle you constantly and well.. complain of chest pain at a rate that has made me decide .. I am heading to the beach. Ive been doing health clinic for 3 weeks, teaching a women's health class in mud huts, visiting orphanages, and mmm oh yes playing with street kids. I have gotten what I wanted from ICODEI and before I give them another cent..Im off to Mombassa for a little fun ;) I see patients all day long and come to find out half of what I prescribe isnt being handed out by the pharmacist at clinic. I feel good about the education Ive been providing at the very least :) Dont get me wrong. It is a good program, a good experience, ...but guilt leaving- very little. I am looking forward to meeting a friend of mine on the coast and then...Africa is my oyster.
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